Waimea Bay

Episode 126: Vicky Durand

Vicky Durand -- Wave Woman the book, Waikiki surfing in the 1950s

** Interview episode 126 **

In this episode Vicky Durand takes us through the colorful life of her mother, Betty, charging waves in the 1950’s. From stories she’s captured in her recent book, Wave Woman, Vicky tells the story of her mother finding and thriving in the world of surfing, the legendary Waikiki surf scene, the first international surfing competition for woman, and much more. Vicky takes us through her own teen years of surfing on Hawaii, the characters, the waves, and her own stories of progressing in the ocean, and surfing with her mother. You can find the whole story in Wave Woman, available at wavewomanbook.com and major online book retailers, and if you love hearing about what I consider the golden days of surfing, you’ll love this book. 

This Ocean Life Podcast Wave Woman the Book

Episode 101: Maria Fernanda

Maria Fernanda -- big wave surf photography, fins and a camera

Maria Fernanda swims with fins and a camera in waves that most of us won’t paddle out for. As a native of Mexico City, Maria found her love of the ocean through years of family trips to the coast to ultimately discovering natural strength in big surf. Tied to Maria’s passion for photography, this has led her on a journey to photograph some of the heaviest waves on the planet such as Nazare, Pipeline, Todos Santos, and her home break of Puerto Escondido. Along the way Maria has trained in big wave rescue, survived a broken leg in the water, built a global community of friends in the ocean, and continuously pushes her physical and mental limits swimming in heavy surf.
 
If you like what you hear today, go check out Save the Waves Coalition, at savethewaves.org, and learn about ways thay you can help protect sensitive surf breaks and preserve them for future generations. Thanks for caring about our ocean and thanks for being here today sharing in the ocean life of Maria Fernanda.
 
Thanks for sharing Maria’s ocean life with us. Be sure to check her out on Instagram and her website.  
 
* Other pieces of our conversation *

 

  • Recent (November 2019) swell at Nazare
  • Swimming and taking photos at legendary big wave breaks such as Jaws, Puerto Escondido, Pipeline, Todos Santos, Waimea Bay, Nazare.
  • First photo shoots and heavy waves on Kuaui
  • Mental and physical training for swimming in big waves
  • Growing up in Mexico City and finding her strength in the ocean through weekend trips to the coast with family
  • Having a mentor to teach her surf photography, starting with a disposable camera!
  • Perspective on the mainland Mexico big wave surf scene, and global big wave surf communit
This Ocean Life Podcast Maria Fernanda